Used in countless shampoos, conditioners and styling prods, silicones are one of the best ingredients for transforming a frizzy, misbehaving mop into silky-smooth, manageable strands. So, why then does this super-popular hair, skin and cosmetic ingredient sometimes get a bad rap?
Do a quick Google search of ‘bad haircare ingredients’ and you’ll probably see silicones sitting right alongside sulfates, mineral oils and parabens. We agree it’s best to steer clear of these last three – and you’ll never find them in our products. However, the silicone story isn’t quite so simple.
To discover the good, the bad and ugly side of silicones, read on. Our comprehensive article will help you determine once and for all – are silicones bad for your hair?
What Are Silicones – And Why Are They Used in Beauty Products?
“Derived from quartz sand, silicones are conditioning agents that are often used in haircare, skincare and makeup products,” says Coco & Eve product scientist Nassim. In haircare, these synthetic polymers essentially coat the hair shaft in a waterproof seal, helping to lock in hydration and keep out humidity for smooth, frizz-free results.
“Formulators love silicones because they add softness and spreadability to haircare and skincare products,” Nassim adds. Super popular in shampoos, conditioners and styling products, they’re also loved by consumers for their ability to boost shine and increase manageability. So, what’s the problem then, people?
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Are Silicones Bad For Your Hair?
The truth is, silicones are kinda complicated. While they’re not necessarily ‘bad’ for your strands, they can sometimes contribute to hair damage or dullness. However, this totally depends on the type of silicone used, and the type of product it’s formulated into.
The most common complaint against silicones is that they lead to build-up, which can leave locks limp, weighed down and greasy. Many of us will have experienced this after using a new silicone-containing shampoo or conditioner for a few weeks.
Over time, silicones can also potentially lead to dry, brittle hair and breakage, as this build-up can be difficult to remove and can prevent moisturising ingredients penetrating your strands. HOWEVER, this can be avoided by steering clear of silicone-based shampoos and conditioners – and sticking instead with haircare and styling products that contain beneficial silicones.
So, What’s the Sitch with Silicone in Shampoos?
At Coco & Eve, we use small amounts of some (good) silicones to tame and smooth hair – but never in our shampoo and conditioner. Many people wash their hair daily, and the last thing you want to do is weigh strands down with build-up – particularly if you have fine hair or want to maintain your curls.
Despite helping to lock in moisture, silicone-containing shampoos can also potentially lead to dryness and damage. Why? Because the more you use them, the more build-up you’ll experience and the more you’ll be tempted to wash your hair. This over-washing can lead to dryness – particularly if you’re regularly reaching for a clarifying shampoo with drying, colour-stripping sulfates. Or, equally annoyingly, it can also trigger oily hair to produce even more oil.
While greasy build-up is a bummer in and of itself, it will also prevent your strands from absorbing the nourishing, moisturising ingredients in your haircare. So, silicones in shampoos and conditioners? That’s a ‘no’ from us.
Which Silicones Get the Tick of Approval?
All that aside, silicones DO have a time and a place in your haircare routine – and that’s in styling and treatment products. Forming a protective shield around the hair shaft, silicones help to minimise damage from heat styling. And there are few ingredients that do as good a job of taming unruly locks and helping you achieve a smooth, polished ‘do.
Lighter, less sticky silicones such as dimethicone and cyclomethicone are often used in styling products. One of the most popular, dimethicone is known to protect the hair from abrasive actions and may even help to bulk up strands1.
Cyclomethicone, on the other hand, is a great option for fine or straight hair. Nice and light, it leaves minimal build-up and washes out more easily than other silicones.
Does Coco & Eve Use Silicones?
While our shampoo and conditioner favour shine-enhancing plant oils over silicones, our OG Like A Virgin Hair Masque contains dimethicone, while the Miracle Hair Elixir contains cyclopentasiloxane (part of the cyclomethicone family) and dimethiconol. These safe silicones are included at very small percentages because their benefits – reduced frizz, increased manageability and incredible softness and shine – far outweigh any potential downsides.
According to Nassim, our nourishing hair mask is formulated with dimethicone to improve wet combing, lustre and sheen, while reducing flyaways and increasing softness and humidity resistance. In our shine-enhancing, heat-protective hair oil, on the other hand, “Highly volatile cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol evaporate quickly, leaving a dry feel with no residue.”
A Final Word on Using Haircare Products with Silicone
With amazing frizz-fighting, shine-enhancing and heat-protective benefits, silicones are safe to use in hair care products. But always remember that less is more. If your hair is feeling weighed down or greasy, you’re using too much!
Follow the usage instructions on your hair serum or mask (taking into account your own hair texture and length) and you can’t go wrong!
References
- Gavazzoni Dias MR. Hair cosmetics: An overview. Int J Trichol [serial online] 2015 [cited 2021 Aug 3];7:2-15. Available from: https://www.ijtrichology.com/text.asp?2015/7/1/2/153450
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Written By: Pip Jarvis
Edited by: Iris
